Reader Mail: What do you think of sew-in weaves?

January 2006, my sew-in weave

I recently got an email asking about my thoughts on sew-in weaves.  Here is my response below:

Sew-in weaves can be a great option to protect your hair.  My stylist does sew-ins exclusively (with the exception of me and maybe one other person lol)  and her clients have had success with using them to retain length.  Check out her website for some progress pictures at www.reniece.com. 

My only caveat is this - don't wear a sew-in at the risk of developing scalp issues.  My scalp will go crazy if I wait longer than 10 days to wash it.  With a sew-in you won't be able to wash your scalp thoroughly, thus its just not a great option for everyone.  This is why I prefer to wear wigs in the winter, because I can easily remove it and wash my hair. 

Feb 2006, Sew-in curled

If you won't have any scalp issues and decide to get the sew-in, keep the following in mind:

• Make sure the stylist doesn't braid too tightly. If your eyebrows won't come down, or you feel like you've just had an instant face lift then its WAY too tight.
  
• Ask the stylist to sew a weave mesh along the perimeter of your braided hair and then sew the weave onto the mesh instead of onto your braided hair. The threads can cut into your hair when sewn directly onto your braids.
  
• You still have to moisturize your real hair under the weave (use a color applicator bottle to apply it between the tracks)
• Don't wear it for longer then 6-8 weeks, any longer and you risk finding matted roots when you remove the sew-in
• After you remove the sew-in, thoroughly detangle your hair and remove all shedded hair before you wash.  If you don't remove all the shedded hair, you will end up with a matted tangled mess that may require cutting to remove.  I don't mean to scare you but it can get that extreme in a matter of minutes.  

The Search for the Perfect Wig, Part 2

In Part 1 of The Search for the Perfect Wig, I discussed what I am looking for in a human hair lace wig.  Here is what I learned about getting each of my requirements met.

Types of Lace Wigs.  There are mainly two types of lace wigs available - full lace and lace front.  A full lace wig has a cap that is made almost entirely with lace, and allows you to wear a high ponytail.  A lace front wig is has a few inches of lace in the front of the wig, and weft tracks in the back of the wig.   

1. Durability - The type of lace used is essential to how durable the wig will be.  There are two main types of lace used - French and Swiss.  French lace is considered the most durable, but the durability comes at the expense of not being as invisible on your skin.  Swiss lace is less durable than French, but is undetectable against your skin.  I plan to use my own hair line, so whether the lace disappears on my skin is irrelevant to me.  Thus, I chose French lace.   
2. Length - The longer the hair, the more it costs.  I feared getting a shorter length and then "outgrowing" it, which would then require me to buy another wig in the future.  So I chose the 20" long wig.  I figured that if it is too long, then I can trim it but if its a little shorter, then it won't be such a big deal.  
3. Texture - For the most part, the human hair used in lace wigs are either Indian, Chinese, Italian, or Malaysian.  In its natural state, these hair types are straight and silky.  Fortunately, manufacturers have developed a process where they can alter the texture of the natural hair to resemble relaxed type 4 hair.  Hair that has been process to have a relaxed texture are categorized as light yaki, yaki, and coarse yaki.   
1. Here are examples of yaki textured human hair:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Light Yaki/Yaki
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   Coarse Yaki
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    Texture
   
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4. Maintenance - Full lace wigs require more maintenance than lace front wigs, because the lace is delicate and can tear.  Minor tears can usually be repaired at home with a needle and clear thread.  With repeated washes, the hair on a full lace wig is also more prone to shedding.  To minimize shedding, a knot sealer should be sprayed under the lace cap after each wash.  Also, it is recommended that you use a fray block on the lace, after you cut it to reduce shedding along the hairline.  All human hair wigs should be shampooed,  conditioned, and moisturized to prevent excess damage to the hair.  I decided to get a lace front wig because it requires less maintenance, and is more durable that a full lace wig.      
5. Style - All human hair wigs can be styled with flat irons, and curling irons.  However, as with your real hair, it is important to use heat protectants when styling your human hair wig.   
6. Application (*New category*) - Most people who wear lace wigs, apply the wig with an adhesive (tape or liquid glue).  I am not comfortable with using an adhesive, so I plan to attach hair pins to the inside of the wig to secure it to my head.  Wig clips can also be sewn into the cap of the wig, but I prefer the no tension hold of my hair pins.    

In summation, I chose a human hair, lace front wig that is made with french lace, and has a yaki texture.  For me, this was the best option because it offered me the most durable, low maintenance, and realistic looking wig.  

Stay tuned for Part 3, where I will discuss shopping for a lace/lace front wig.  
   

The Search for the "Perfect" Wig

Hi friends!

Please excuse the short pause between posts.  I hurt my leg in ballet class, when a very limber 17-year-old assumed that I was a fellow limber 17-year-old.  I'm not as flexible as I was at 17, but I'm getting there.  My leg is doing better and I will be back in ballet class next week.

Let's play a game of Good news/ Bad news:

Good news - I recorded a video of my winter wash day routine!  WooHoo! I was excited and nervous and I'm sure the video will show both emotions.

Bad news - My camcorder's program decided it is no longer compatible with my laptop.  So I got a Mac.  The learning curve is fierce, but I expect to post my first video this weekend.

Now onto the subject of this post.

I have delved into the world of lace wigs and let me tell you, it is a world of its own.  I will share what I've learned with you, so we can learn together.  After the untimely demise of my last wig, I needed to get a replacement wig.  Instead of getting another synthetic lace front wig, I decided to invest in a human hair lace wig.  This purchase is an investment because as I learned, these things don't run cheap.

A good quality, human hair, lace wig can cost anywhere from $200 to $400+. The price depends on the hair type, density, lace type, length, and construction.  Here is a list of my requirements and my rationale:

1. Durability - If I'm going to spend hundreds of dollars on a piece of hair, it needs to last for YEARS.  Do I have high hopes? Perhaps. But I expect that with proper care, this wig will last for at least 3 winters.  
2. Length - I want a wig that is the same length or a bit shorter than my real hair.  This way I can switch from my hair to the wig, without getting questions about whether I cut my hair. 
3. Texture - I love textured hair, which is why I texlax my own hair rather than relax it bone straight.  Since I plan to wear the lace front as a half wig, I need my real hair to blend seamlessly with the wig.  
4. Maintenance - I need a wig that only requires shampoo, conditioner, and moisturizer.  Anything more and I might as well be doing my own hair. 
5. Style - I need a wig that can be styled with heat, so I have the option and flexibility to change the hairstyle.  I plan to have fun with the wig - beach waves, spiral curls, braid outs, etc. 

Now that you know my requirements, next I will share what I learned about getting each one met.

To be continued...

Winter Protective Style Regimen

Here is my winter protective style regimen. This post supplements the video above, so please watch the video in addition to reading this post.

Wash Schedule:

• Frequency - I wash my hair every two weeks (or once a week if my scalp gets itchy).

• Cornrow Removal - I unbraid each cornrow and thoroughly comb out all of the shedded hair. If you do not remove the shedded hair before you wash, your hair will get tangled and matted.

• Shampoo - I shampoo three times. First, with diluted clarifying shampoo. Then twice with diluted moisturizing shampoo.

• Deep Condition - To save time, I mix my reconstructor and deep conditioner together. I apply and comb the mix through my hair, then deep condition under my hair steamer for 40 minutes.

• Leave-in Conditioner - I use a liquid and creamy leave-in and comb them through my hair.

• Drying Technique - I let my hair air dry hanging down, with a silk scarf wrapped around my neck.

• Edges - I apply a heat protectant and flat iron the hair I leave out. Although I have a lace front wig, I use it like an instant weave. For me, this looks more natural than having the wig sit on my forehead.

Daily Care:

• I remove the wig at night and spray the cornrows with braid spray mixed with Infusium 23 leave-in. I seal with either coconut oil or castor oil.

• I comb the wig daily to remove tangles. I do not apply any product to the wig. 

I have a different regimen for the Spring/Summer seasons and will update my regimen when the time comes. 

Please let me know if you have any questions in the Comments section.

When Good Wigs, Go Bad.

As you may already know, I wear a wig in the winter to protect my own hair.  I planned to record a video showing exactly how I did it, but the video will have to wait until I get a replacement wig.

I accidentally left the wig out and suspect that my dog, Wisdom, decided to get into a brawl with it.  The wig lost the fight.  It is synthetic, so my options were limited.  I painstakingly detangled and washed the wig, but I couldn't revive it.  This is how it looked before:

This is how it looks after I combed and washed it:

The fibers tangle very easily now and I can not run my fingers through the hair.  I wore this wig daily for 5 weeks and it started tangling before this incident.  This was my first synthetic wig, and I was disappointed.  So I will stick to buying human hair wigs in the future.  It seems that the synthetic fibers are not as resilient as human hair.  My last human hair instant weave lasted for 4 months without major tangling.  The synthetic wig costs less than a human hair wig.  However, the human hair wig is a better buy, because I plan to wear it for at least 10 weeks.    

Here is a picture for the suspect:

 

I can't even be mad at that cute little face. 

Happy growing.

Retain Length with Weave/wigs

Hi ladies,

Every winter, I give my hair a much needed break and protect it from the harsh cold weather by wearing an instant weave/half wig. I take care of my own hair so that I retain all my length. I will make a video on my winter regimen soon. In the interim, here are some key points in my regimen:

• Cornrow my own hair,
• Moisturize my hair daily, and
• Wash weekly.

In general, people's hair growth slows in the winter time.  So by having a low manipulation regimen during the winter months, I maximize on how much length I retain.

Please let me know if you have any questions/issues you would like me to address in the video. 

Happy growing.